![]() ![]() All I found was well used ones or $25-30k clean ones I wasn' t willing to pay so much for. I looked for about a year and ended up buying a new one almost 3 years ago instead. If you find a clean one, buy it! It's a towing beast while retaining the ride comfort all Suburbans have. The Suburban I'm contemplating is a 2004 3/4 ton with the 8.1 V8 and 4:10 rear end. Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's.ĥ1 cylinders in household, what's yours?. Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it). Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking! The 3/4 ton Sub comes stock with E rated tires.Īs a min, change out the OEM receiver for a traditional design. The rear GAWR should be okay, as it is a couple thousand pounds more rating Have you figures how big your kids will be? Marty, our mod, has kids on theĮxtreme end of the size bell curve. You are figuring too light of a tongue weight. The frame is bigger, drive train is bigger, etc The world of difference is beneath the body.everything is bigger/better. The bodies on a half ton Sub and 3/4 ton Sub are exactly the same.even your The same, as to move the same trailer the laws of physics will take over Mainly better MPG when used as a car, but when towing.about If MPG is that high on your list of have to have's.stick with the lowerĬlass TV. To me gas mileage is a non-issue.the enjoyment and family time is way more valuable than dollars. You can expect 6 to 9 towing and 12-15 not towing depending on how you drive. I always advise to go with the biggest truck you can afford. And I think I can get this 2004 3/4 ton for almost a straight trade for my fully decked out Denali. I should note, I work from home 99% of the time and if my miles stay similar to what I've put on the Denali, it'll be less than 10,000/year and no daily driving requirement to speak of. (It's got P-rated 20" tires on it right now that were installed previous to me buying it. Just worried about payload/safety for my family. Or for a 25ft travel trailer of the size I have, should the Denali be enough? Power-wise I'm fine. Is it worth the change to get the 10 ply tires, bigger brakes, bigger suspension, transmission, etc? We bought this bigger camper so that we can take some longer trips to Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, etc. #Awecleaner high sierra plusSo call it 650lbs tongue weight, plus my family of 5, plus hitch, plus "Stuff" in the car, and I'm really pushing up against my 1440lbs payload in the Denali. With the KS Frontier we just bought (7,000 GVWR), even if I pack light and keep it around 6,000lbs (dry weight is 4900), I'm looking at over 600lbs in tongue weight. I have a growing family of 5 right now in the Denali. I know this isn't going to be pretty at the gas pump, but am wondering how much worse I should expect vs what I'm already used to. ![]() ![]() I think it's getting roughly 12 around town and maybe as high as 14-15 on the highway, IF, I don't drive to fast. My Denali is an AWD half-ton with the 6.0 V8. I'm looking for some real world comparisons between the two as far as gas mileage goes. Topic: 1500 Yukon XL Denali vs 2500 Suburban 8.1Īs you can see from my subject line, I'm contemplating making a change from my 2005 GMC Yukon XL Denali to a 2004 Chevy Suburban (2500). RV.Net Open Roads Forum: 1500 Yukon XL Denali vs 2500 Suburban 8.1 Open Roads Forum ![]()
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